a lunch at Shopsin's on Essex

Shopsin's General Store is now open in the Essex Street Market, which has undergone a bit of a makeover of late--nothing extreme, but better lighting, new signage, and a couple more eat-in options. Wedged in an unassuming corner next to Saxelby Cheesemongers, Shopsin's doesn't seem so different from any other market stall until you view the menu which, while not as extensive as its famed original incarnation, is still imaginatively liberal in scope and diverting. The breakfast items read like a dream raid on a night kitchen (poached eggs on garlic bread, scrambled eggs with pulled pork).

I've never particularly wanted to eat at Shopsin's, in much the same way I've never wanted to meet J.D. Salinger. I'd rather read about it. But good things come to those who don't care, and Shopsin's has come to me. Bypassing the poutine and the bread pudding french toast, I settled on the turkey sloppy joe for lunch. It was perfectly fine with a buttery, toasted sesame seed bun that reminded me of suburban summers in a good way, but I would go back to try the regular sloppy joe. The service was warm and timely, and I believe that was the proprietor Kenny ambling into the kitchen whenever an order came in. The space is small, but a trio of tables provide more comfort and privacy than one would assume.

I also got banana ebelskivers to go, figuring I would have one on the street and save the rest for later, but they were amazing and I had four straight away, and really could have eaten the whole portion by myself. Eight dollars seems a lot for maybe eight ebelskivers--more than for the sandwich--but you can't get them just anywhere, and they were delicious.

Shopsin's is open from 9-3, Tuesdays through Saturdays. Despite the many esoteric items on the menu, it's also a good option for anyone who wants a simple old-fashioned breakfast of eggs, bacon, and toast or a boxed lunch of sliders.

Shopsin's is at the southern end of the Essex Street Market, 120 Essex Street, between Delancey and Rivington.

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