how to eat like a bird: a cabbage and egg stir-fry

This is one of those fast, thrifty dishes that harried moms make on the fly to feed their hungry brood. It's simple and comforting, but interesting enough to warrant a try even if you have all the leisure time in the world. There are only four ingredients, so the teaspoon or two of fish sauce is key. It turns what could be a bland vegetable dish into something far more savory and nutty, and even sweet. Serve as a side dish or with steamed rice.

Adapted from Into the Vietnamese Kitchen by Andrea Nguyen. Serves 4 as a side dish.

2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
½ head green cabbage, cored and sliced into ¼-inch-wide ribbons (4 cups packed)
1 to 2 tablespoons of water
2 teaspoons fish sauce
1 egg, beaten
Black pepper

In a wok or large skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add garlic and stir-fry for 15 seconds or until fragrant. Add cabbage and stir-fry for 2 minutes or until heated through and glistening. Add one tablespoon of water to facilitate cooking and prevent browning. Continue stir-frying, adding another tablespoon of water if the cabbage threatens to scorch.

After 2 to 3 minutes, when cabbage has softened but is still crisp tender, add the fish sauce, pour in the egg, and stir-fry briefly to distribute egg evenly. Remove from heat before the egg firmly sets--you want a slightly custardy texture. Serve with a generous amount of pepper for some heat.

(My notes: I halved the recipe, except for the egg because I wanted a higher egg to cabbage ratio. Be sure to slice the cabbage into ¼-inch-wide ribbons, as directed. I sliced mine thicker and it took longer to cook and was less delicate, I'm sure. There's no need to add salt because of the fish sauce.)