how to eat like a bird: bewitched by frisée (and a cookie)

Frisée is usually the last bit of stray green left on a salad plate. That's because the stuff is unruly, a little bitter, and seemingly impenetrable to the redemptive qualities of any old vinaigrette. In a picture of mild and tender mixed greens, frisée is the one that sticks out, the one "that does not belong."

The thing is, though, frisée has no business co-mingling with baby greens. It needs stronger counterparts like lardon, a poached egg, lardon grease, a stinky Roquefort, a dry martini. Here it is in a 'wichcraft sandwich packed to the gills, accompanied by marinated white anchovies, a soft-boiled egg, roasted onions; and tempered by a parsley-caper vinaigrette that matches the anchovies in briny saltiness and overall umami effect. It's a very good sandwich--cooling in its bright Mediterranean flavors but still soulful.

Caveats: sometimes they pile on the parsley-caper vinaigrette which makes it overly salty, but it's easy enough to scrape some off. While this is my favorite cold sandwich at 'wichcraft, my favorite overall is the grilled cheddar with smoked country ham that sometimes comes with pear and, in the winter, quince.

I could have had half and saved the rest for later because the frisée retains its integrity so well. (But I didn't.) And look how cleverly they toasted the inside of the country bread so the ingredients wouldn't soak through. --I don't know if this was a one-time fluke or if they've always done this and I never noticed before because I'm usually so hungry by the time I eat lunch, things are a blur.

I also had a cookie, which I never feel guilty about at 'wichcraft because: 1) they're so good it seems rather parsimonious to pass up the chance, and 2) they're very small--about an inch and a half in diameter and $1 each, so it is a very singular indulgence (as compared to their equally good, very moist coffeecake which I suppose is only sinful because I squirrel it away for later, refusing to share). My favorite is the oatmeal cookie, which is tender and slightly chewy with a cream-filled middle that is more like a buttery and nutty light ganache than the sugar-packed monstrosity of Oreos and their like.