The Spotted Pig in the West Village can transform even brussels sprouts into something of an indulgence. My friend had ordered them along with some swiss chard because she needed something green against our backdrop of chicken liver on toast, gnudi in a butter sage sauce, creamy deviled eggs, and boozy prunes wrapped in bacon. And while the chard was salty, it served its function admirably, providing some vegetation that tasted lighter and cleaner than everything else at the table. But the brussels sprouts were something else altogether.
They looked innocuous enough, charred nearly black but unadorned in a simple bowl. But the outer leaves were a little crisp and nutty and rich enough that at one point I thought maybe they’d been finished with some Parmesan cheese. And the center was a sweet nugget with nothing cruciferous about it—it had more the molten texture of a roasted chestnut. Comfort food at its finest, yet seemingly still a vegetable.
I was flummoxed enough to inquire as to what was going on here—the first time I’ve ever asked a server how something is prepared. Usually I’m too shy or assume it’s too complex an issue to venture into. But she came back from the kitchen with the pleasingly simple response of:
1): Blanch them in highly seasoned water (stressing “highly”).
2): Pan-fry them in lots of butter (stressing “lots”).
So there it was. Not a secret at all, but rather, like everything else on their menu, an alchemy of salt and butter.
I don’t approve of recipes where vegetables are transformed with a lot of fat. Why would I want a cauliflower gratin when I can have macaroni and cheese if it’s virtually the same thing as far as nutritional components? But I was already hooked on these, and while the brussels sprouts were perhaps bathed in butter, they were still the mainstay of the dish, not hidden by 10 other ingredients. I’m a sucker for rustic simplicity (any dish with only three components), so I tried these at home.
I blanched (inserted in boiling water) them for a couple minutes in water with maybe three times the amount of salt I would use for pasta (you should use more), then pan-fried them in half a stick of butter, which was really much more butter than was needed for eight brussels sprouts. Most of it was left in the pan at the end, thankfully. The house smelled marvelous and my cat was beside himself as the butter turned nutty and golden-brown. I didn’t cook them long enough as I had to take them off the pan before the butter turned black, so didn’t get the same consistency. But the outer leaves tasted wonderful, and they were still pretty good.
My friend also ended up making these, and I think with better success. She blanched the sprouts in water seasoned with pepper and more salt than I had used for a longer period of time--about five minutes, before pan-frying them in butter on low heat, as if caramelizing onions, for at least 30 minutes. And she said they could have used 30 minutes more, perhaps. She used two sticks of butter for two pounds of brussels sprouts. They weren’t exactly the same as at the Spotted Pig’s, she said, but fantastic all the same. Even members of her family who didn’t like brussels sprouts really enjoyed them.
I roast them, to get the crunchy dark outer leaves, and the soft inside. Cut in half, dress with olive oil and salt and pepper and roast at 400 for about a half an hour. Some grating cheese is good at the end too.
Posted by: r | April 02, 2008 at 01:57 PM
I do like them roasted, too. That's how they kind of became my vegetable of choice, although have yet to make them at home. Certainly healthier than with all the butter!
Posted by: Julie | April 02, 2008 at 03:25 PM
Cook's Illustrated swears by the braising method, ideally in cream, if one can stand the calories (I can't). I either steam mine in the microwave or blanch them, then finish them off with a quick pan fry in a little sesame oil or butter, sel gris, and cracked pepper.
My fave beer pub serves them roasted, and they are AMAZING with a pint of Guinness.
Posted by: durasoul | April 10, 2008 at 07:47 PM
You know, I was going to say something about how an Old Speckled Hen was so good with these....There must be something about creamy beers and brussel sprouts.
Posted by: Julie | April 16, 2008 at 01:16 PM
Every body understands that men's life seems to be high priced, however we require cash for various stuff and not every one earns big sums cash. Thence to receive quick loans or collateral loan will be a right solution.
Posted by: Lynn23Robertson | March 08, 2010 at 07:14 AM
Houses are not cheap and not everyone is able to buy it. Nevertheless, home loans are invented to help people in such cases.
Posted by: mortgage loans | August 24, 2010 at 03:20 AM
Later road, we walk together.
Posted by: Air Jordans | November 10, 2010 at 02:11 AM
i love you post
Posted by: taobao | November 10, 2010 at 10:54 PM
Sometimes one pays most for the things one gets for nothing
Posted by: christian louboutin | November 12, 2010 at 02:30 AM
i love this post
Posted by: moncler jackets | November 13, 2010 at 03:13 AM
That's not his. Steve's is black*_*
Posted by: air jordan | November 16, 2010 at 08:28 PM
Oh,really?That is too good to be true.
Posted by: louis vuitton bags | November 18, 2010 at 07:40 PM
Is necessary to hope. . . for hope itself is happiness!
Posted by: cheap supra shoes | November 21, 2010 at 07:53 PM
Um...like the style of your writing.*_*
Posted by: Taobao | January 14, 2011 at 02:16 AM
http://www.tiffany-jp.jp" rel="dofollow">tiffany & co
Posted by: Tiffany Rings | January 27, 2011 at 01:37 AM
i love tuareg lifes and their stories
Posted by: Taobao English site | January 28, 2011 at 02:33 AM
The important thing in life is to have a great aim, and the determination to attain it.
Posted by: Cheap Ugg Boots | February 16, 2011 at 01:17 AM
There must be something about creamy beers and brussel sprouts.
Posted by: ClubPenguinCheats | March 22, 2011 at 09:48 PM
Your point of view a lot of benefit to me, thank you
Posted by: coach outlet | April 13, 2011 at 08:51 PM
So fun article is! I agree the idea!
Posted by: Coach Outlet Online | June 28, 2011 at 12:44 AM
rush to end the water flames. People outside still busy. Condensate faint smile green, separated by thick flame, which is almost not see them the same again. In this way,. This is my relief, but also
Posted by: North Face | July 13, 2011 at 04:20 AM
wrap the body wrapped in a tunic, surrounded by darkness, only not far behind like a burning flame sufficient to ignite the skies as the fire burned strong. Ear, seemed to hear faint "Fire," the
Posted by: The North Face | July 13, 2011 at 04:23 AM
When I first started talking to my now-partners about joining August Capital, I was stunned at the slow pace of the conversation. I couldn't imagine how it could take months to make a decision about whether or not to invite me to join the partnership. Admittedly, I wasn't coming from the most conventional background to enter the venture industry. But over the course of months, the August partners had more than enough time
Posted by: Louis Vuitton Outlet | August 12, 2011 at 09:07 PM
finding your artical is surprised to me. i want to search for this imformation. thanks your sharing.
Posted by: UGG Classic Mini | September 05, 2011 at 04:03 AM
こんにちは
Posted by: iPhone 4 ケース | September 26, 2011 at 10:12 PM